When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. However, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.
This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.
“I’m utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.
This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.
In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.
It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.
The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.
Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.
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